Day 79: 14 miles, Aug 5

These 14 miles were the slowest and the fastest of the whole trip. Because the end was so near, they seemed to go on forever, but when I finally reached victory monument in Yorktown, I found myself wishing there were more miles to do.

It was a beautiful way to end. The weather was certainly warm, but the extreme heat had abated a little. The Colonial Parkway, which covers most of the ride between Williamsburg and Yorktown, is about as scenic as it gets. And, as I entered Yorktown, it dawned on me how well Adventure Cycling has planned this route. Here, at the end, was the place that the British navy surrendered to the combined naval forces of the American colonies and France. I had, in effect, just traveled backwards through my country’s history. Wonderful!

Just as the last 14 miles were a dichotomy of speed, so have these four days since the end of the ride been an oxymoron of time. Day 79 feels like last year, yet I cannot bring myself to empty my handlebar bag. That bag was all I needed to contain my important daily items for 80 days (wallet, snacks, pellet gun), and now I have to think about deck furniture?! Whatever objections my adventurous spirit may raise, however, my life inexorably returns to its former state of complexity, but I know that, as the months pass, I’ll continue to long very much for that simple way of things where all I had to do was eat, sleep, and ride.

Ode to my Mojo

I’d like to take a moment to thank my faithful friend, the tiki mask wired to the head tube of my bicycle. It was a gift to me from my parents and sister while we were vacationing in Guatemala. I had the real version of Montezuma’s revenge. Tiki was there.

The tiki was also there during my stint as a Manhattan bicycle messenger. He was attached to the head tube of a different bike, my aluminum Cannondale, and saw me through three collisions with taxis and countless deliveries.

I’m not really superstitious, but I guess it’s good to have a little rabbit’s foot every now and then.

Day 78: 50 miles, Aug 4

I can’t believe that I don’t have any pictures from this day. It was very eventful! Maybe there was just too much happening for me to remember to get out the camera.

We awoke early at the church and got going around 6:30. By noon we had covered 45 miles – I was very impressed with my dad’s fitness. He is 62 years old after all! The rides was virtually ruler-flat as it proceeded towards the James River area. There were many plantations along the way.

We got to Williamsburg and had lunch near the historic colonial area while I performed the motel search routine. The Bassett Motel seemed a good deal, but they were replacing the air conditioner. After suffering through this heat wave for the past month, such news was pretty discouraging, but we decided to go for it. The owners were very friendly, and, I’m happy to say, the AC was working just fine.

By the time we got back to the colonial area it was late afternoon. We had both been there before, but this time we were on bicycles, an ideal way to see the place! We didn’t bother buying tickets, but I did manage to talk our way into seeing the woodshop.

That evening we supped on excellent wine and cheese as we anticipated finishing the ride the next day. It was hard for me to believe.

Day 77: 37 miles, Aug 3

Well, after two lovely days, I suppose you’re bound to have a bad one. The scenery was less than stellar today since the route skirts Richmond and proceeds through the I-95 corridor. It was mostly congested suburban traffic all day.

One bright spot was catching up to Mike and Devin, the two Arizona riders with pellet guns. Neither of them rides with a mirror, so I was able to quite easily sneak up on them in ambush. They were surprised, and had wondered what had happened to me. They rode on into Yorktown to finish the ride today, but it was good to see them (shoot them) again.

Despite getting a bit of a late start from the motel (7 pm), we suffered through the heat and arrived at the destination I had intended for today, Glendale, before 2 pm. Perhaps my dad was getting into shape pretty quickly, for he argued in favor of going on. Glendale is nothing more than a gas station and a church, so we’d be quite bored to stay here, he felt.

In the end, I won him over. A good friend from my hike once told me that “a thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail should last 6 months. Eight months if you do it right.” I was in no hurry to finish my ride. Who wants to rush back into the world of cars and monthly bills? Besides, if we did another 30 miles, he’d likely be exhausted and regretful the next day.

Turns out my dad’s pretty good at not riding, too. The Willis United Methodist Church isn’t plush, but that didn’t keep him from napping for 3 hours of the afternoon! I entertained myself with the sanctuary piano. In the picture we’re enjoying a gourmet hot dog and wine dinner!

Day 76: The patron city of cyclists

Day 76: 44 miles, Aug 2

An even better day – the terrain gets ever more beautiful! It was tree tunnels and corn fields for most of the ride today, except for the portion along the banks of the beautiful Lake Anna. It was another early start, too (around 5:30).

We arrived in Ashland for lunch and made full use of the tourist info center in the old train depot to locate a cheap room for the night. Lunch was a slow affair (to relish the air conditioning) at a coffee shop, and then we finally got to the motel. It had a pool, and I must say I enjoyed it. Most cyclists I’ve met seem to seek out pools as often as they can, but for some reason I’ve never been much of a fan (maybe it’s my lily-white complexion). I watched my first Groucho Marx movie that night in the room – I’m hooked!

In the photo I’m hanging on a TransAm sign – now ubiquitous along the route.

Day 75: 33 miles, Aug 1

Fearing the extreme heat, we got going around 6 am this morning and made it to Mineral for lunch. Having left the mountains behind at Charlottesville, the terrain was gently rolling, but the heat made for a big obstacle as I have learned. I found that my dad, who hasn’t been riding for 74 days and developed the habit, needed to be reminded to hydrate, especially after the vineyard visit!

We had two huge milkshakes and sandwiches for lunch and mosied on over to the fire station where we would sleep. The area coordinator, Mr. Schlemmer, happened to be driving by so I flagged him down. He showed us in and gave us the tour. What a comfortable break room! We did suffer through radio scanners and phone calls, but otherwise it was another wonderful stay in a fire station.

Day 74: 23 miles, Jul 31

My first day with my dad! Perhaps I neglected to explain earlier that my dad met me in Charlottesville to finish the last 190 miles of the route with me. This day was purposefully quite short since we both wanted to spend a lot of time at Monticello, or “Thomas’ house” as he affectionately calls it. Thanks to my aunt Kay in Fort Payne, AL, who knows a donor to the home, we got some special treatment upon arrival: the curator’s secretary led us up to the third floor and dome room, which was closed to the public some years ago. Very cool! Thank you very much, Kay. We also took all the regular tours we could: house, garden, and plantation.

The short distance to Palmyra we rode in the evening, after the temperature had fallen from nuclear to sweltering. There was no longer a B&B there, so I asked at the excellent deli and convenience store whether there was a place to put up a tent. The owner suggested Pleasant Grove County Park, just a mile away. A few phone calls later, and I had permission from the sheriff to camp there. Fortunately, a storm front came through just in time to cool things off for the night.

Pictures from the Cookie Lady's house in Afton

That's Mrs. Curry and Peggy Rennolds in the middle picture.

More shots of the Blue Ridge Parkway

Can anyone identify the flowers?

Day 73: 64 miles, Jul 30

The climb out of Vesuvius was indeed tough, but I think it has been talked up a lot. I did it in about 45 minutes and was rewarded with the Blue Ridge Parkway. Once I began riding the BRP, I took my time. As the pictures show, it’s beautiful!

I didn’t want to delay too much, however, because today was the day I was going to meet a Trail legend, the Cookie Lady. Known as June Curry to non-cyclists, the Cookie Lady has hosted TransAm riders at her “bike house” since the inaugural ride in ’76. I had been hearing stories of her conversation and memento-filled bike house since Colorado and was quite excited.

Little did I know I was in for a special treat. When I arrived I was greeted not by Mrs. Curry but by Peggy Rennolds, an original ‘76er! Peggy was a riot to talk to and was, to me, as much a celebrity as the Cookie Lady herself. I must have asked a million questions about that first ride, which has always fascinated me. Peggy, as I quickly learned, was indeed a special cyclist – she did her ride with her four-pound poodle Pooh!

I spent over two hours talking to these two ladies, and I heard so many stories in those two hours I wish I had had a tape recorder. I did have to go before too long (my dad was expecting me in Charlottesville that evening), but wanted to express my pleasure in meeting them and offered to sing something. I explained to Mrs. Curry that I have sung opera, and she asked, “Oh, heavens, do you sing anything else?”

Laughing to myself, I thought one of Copland’s Old American Songs would be best and sang “The Boatmen’s Dance.” I am proud to say that she and Peggy enjoyed it and that Mrs. Curry commented she had never heard an opera singer before. I suppose it’s a rare thing to share something new with an 85-year-old!

It was one of those moments I didn’t want to end, and so, wanting it to last, I asked Peggy whether she’d like to have dinner with my father and me in Charlottesville that evening. I thought she and my father would get along well since they both enjoy cycling and both have lived on sailboats in the Caribbean. She agreed.

I met my dad, Don, where the route goes through the campus of the University of Virginia. He’s a big fan of Thomas Jefferson and was communing with Thomas’ genius when I found him. It certainly was surreal to meet my “Diddo” after riding 4000 miles. We went to the hostel room he had already rented, showered, and proceeded to the outdoor mall in downtown Charlottesville for dinner with Peggy.

Peggy was no less ebbullient with her cycling and sailing stories that evening than she had been in the afternoon. Though it was 30 years ago, she has a remarkably clear memory of her ride and recalls names of towns and locations of climbs readily. It’s obvious that her ride is still very much with her, and I can certainly relate. My Appalachian Trail hike remains a big source of daydreams for me. No doubt I’ll be processing this adventure for many years as well.

Thanks, Peggy, for the great company!

The picture is of the climb from Vesuvius.

Day 72: 64 miles, Jul 29

This was quite a fun day! I awoke feeling, and I quote from my paper journal, “like a rocket.” I think I covered the first 17 miles of the day in less than an hour, even though there were perhaps seven or eight railroad crossings.

Dave, the guy from Pittsburg who shared the misery of Missouri with me, finished his ride on the 27th I believe and called me a few days ago to say he could meet me in Lexington, VA, a charming and historical city close to his parents’ home where he was spending the week. So, I got to Lexington around 3 pm, and there he was! Maria, his girlfriend (whom I’m sure was very glad to have him back safely!) was also with him. We had coffee for about an hour and swapped stories about the steep climbs of the Appalachians.

After saying our good-bye’s, (doesn’t an apostrophe belong there?) I rode onwards to Vesuvius. I honestly don’t know how the town got its name, but I did decide to end the day there because it’s at the foot of the steepest climb of the entire route – best to tackle it in the morning on fresh legs. Wait. That sounds like a frog dinner or

There’s a convenience store marked on the map whose owner is supposed to allow camping on the property behind it, but, as I discovered only upon arriving in Vesuvius, the store is a mile away. Again, I was loathe to ride those extra miles, and happened to notice that there was a group of people exiting the nearby Baptist church.

Now, more than a few riders I have met have spoken of great luck begging the hospitality of churches, but I have never been one who likes to impose (or beg). Well, steeling myself for dirty looks and rejection, I approached the nearest fellow with a friendly, “Howdy!”

I am not kidding when I say that I believe the next words out of his mouth were “I think the pastor puts up cyclists in his spare bedroom. He’s next door – just knock.”

Besides their excellent company, Dan and Lynn Stanley fed me, let me take a shower, and did indeed put me up in the oh-so-air-conditioned spare bedroom. I also went along with them to Lexington to pick up their daughter and so got to see quite a bit more of that beautiful city.

The Stanleys are truly some of the most friendly and talkative people I met along my trip, and I can’t adequately explain how valuable a good night’s sleep is on a trip like this, especially before a monster climb! Thank you!

The photo is of the church as I left the next morning.

Day 71: 63 miles, Jul 28

I rolled over 4000 miles today but forgot to take the picture of the cyclometer. For the record, it wasn't raining. The country here is very pleasant: rolling farmland mostly, with no big climbs. The heat has returned, however, but fortunately for now I'm still at a bit of an elevation (about 2000 feet) so it stays somewhat cool at night.

My destination today was Troutville, another Appalachian Trail intersection. Though it looked nice, I desperately did not want to camp in the city park since I thought it'd be too hot to sleep. However, the only hotel was about a mile off route, and that seemed too much. Funny how I could have traveled over 4000 miles and an extra two is unfathomable. Well, as I came into the park, I met the vice-mayor of the town and the groundskeeper for the park. They both assured me it was a safe place to put up a tent.

I guess it was safe, but, yes, it was hot. I believe I eventually fell asleep at midnight.

The picture is the best I could come up with. I think the sky is that color because of the haze. Anyway, the countryside is very pretty (just insert a blue sky and cool breezes).

Day 70: 43 miles, Jul 27

Fairly easy day today on the way to the home of Thad and Sarah Lee in Radford. He is a physician who did the TransAm a few years ago with his two sons (both of whom are now fighter pilots: F-15C and F-22!!!) and has opened his door to cyclists ever since. As soon as I arrived on his property (I had called earlier after receiving his number from a westbounder) he began telling cycling stories. And what stories! I'm afraid I nearly had to interrupt him to have my dinner they were so numerous. I thorough enjoyed his company, and the sleep was some of the best I've gotten on the whole trip.

The picture is of a church and graveyard, a sight I am finding more and more often now that I'm in Virginia.